Music Sin Fronteras: Son Jarocho – another magical night at La Cochera Cultural

Last weekend the art and music hub La Cochera Cultural introduced me to yet another authentic regional music and dance form – Son Jarocho. the music of Veracruz.

Son Jarocho is a traditional Mexican musical style originating from the Veracruz region along the Gulf of Mexico. It’s a fusion of indigenous music, Spanish music, and African musical elements, reflecting the cultural diversity of the area. Son Jarocho typically features lively rhythms, intricate guitar playing (often on a small, five-stringed instrument called the jarana), percussive elements and call-and-response singing.

Son Jarocho can be simple with only the  jarena,  guitar, and percussion like a cajón or tap dancing known as the zapateado, a dance form that traces its roots to Flamenco.  Sometimes it incorporates  the “jarocho” style of the harp, a large, vertical string instrument, and a donkey’s jawbone, known as a “quijada de burro” used as a percussion instrument by striking it with a stick or hitting it against the ground.

The lyrics often touch on themes of love, nature, and everyday life, and protest against injustice, Especially interesting is the use of dance, which involves rhythmic footwork , usually on a wooden platform that amplifies the sound of the tap shoes (some zapateado platforms are actually amplified with hidden mics inside)

You have heard Son Jarocho whether or not you know it, It was the soundtrack for the movie La Bamba, and the song “La Bamba,” originated as a Son Jarocho tune before it became a global hit by Ritchie Valens as a rock and roll Son Jarocho  in 1958.

I have heard Son Jarocho music done by the LA-based band Las Cafeteras, but they blend it with rock and rap. The LA band Los Cambalache plays authentic Son Jarocho, but I have not had a chance to see them. But I did get introduced to genuine Son Jarocho last weekend when the musical group Manguito Con Chile de Xalapa stopped in Ajijic as part of a tour.  

The four musicians  and two dancers played songs from their first album, Patrona de Mantial, with  sounds  inspired by  the stars,  magic and spirituality  that surrounds the  Fandango, a Mexican dance that is also a spiritual experience. The bright, quick, melodies were driven by the high pitched jarana  and moved along with percussion played on a cajón and then by the footwork of the dancers on a zapateado platform. Their style uses a lot of “grito” – shouts and comments in the music, and duets between two of the musicians who also sang.

The dancers were a real hit. Without the elaborate costumes of Flamenco, the two dancers, a man and a woman, used only their dancing shoes to tell the stories of the songs and provide the beat.  The couple on the platform exuded friendly fun as they danced, grinned, and at times even laughed as the audience clapped along with them and a few fans got up and danced in the back of the venue.

All the songs were in Spanish, although the introductions and commentary were in English and as well as Spanish. But no matter what the language, the night was magical and fun. I am looking forward to the next time they tour through Ajijic and I can get even better acquainted with Son Jarocho.

Patrick O Heffernan
Patrick O Heffernan
Patrick O’Heffernan, PhD. Is a radio host and music critic based in Mexico where he covers music in the US, UK, Latin America and Canada. He hosts the weekly radio program Music Sin Fronteras and publishes review articles on numerous sites including his weekly Hot Half Dozen reviews of the best songs and albums released each week.

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